Make a Mailbox

A sturdy, good-looking rural mailbox is easy to make from plywood or scrap cedar or redwood siding.

Tools: measuring rule, pencil, carpenters’ square, straightedge, handsaw or power saw, fine-toothed flat file, hammer, tin snips, electric drill, pop rivet tool, scratch awl, screwdriver, paintbrush.

Materials: 5/8 inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding; sandpaper, carpenters’ glue, 3-penny aluminum nails, small doorknob or door pull with magnetic catch, butt hinges and screws ½ inch longer than screws provided, 1-inch brads, heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal, 1/8 x ½ inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap, pop rivets, 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screws and #8 flat washer, 1-inch L shaped screw hook, paint or stain and red paint, 1 ½ inch #10 lag screws with washers. Time: about 2 to 3 hours, plus finishing time.

To make the mailbox, use 5/8-inch exterior plywood, or smooth cedar or redwood siding. A homemade rural mailbox must be approved by your local postmaster, so submit plans and a list of materials before you make the box. According to U.S. Postal Service regulations, a custom-built box must conform generally to the same requirements as approved manufactured boxes relative to flag, size, strength, and quality of construction. There are three standard approved sizes : 19 inches long, 6 ½  inches wide, and 8 ½  inches high; 21 inches long, 8 inches wide, and 10 ½  inches high; and 23 ½ inches long, 11 ½ inches wide, and 13 ½  inches high. Plan your mailbox to roughly conform to one of these sizes, or to be between the largest and smallest standard sizes.

The box can be painted any color you like, but the Postal Service prefers that the box and its supports be white. If a box number is required, it should be painted or affixed in a contrasting color in characters not less than 1 inch high on the side of the box facing the mail carrier. If there are several boxes in a group, the number of each box should be on its door. Placing your name on the box is optional. Posts or other supports for the box must be neat and strong; locks are not necessary, although they can be used.

To make the box, cut the six main pieces from 5/8-inch exterior plywood or siding: for the top, a piece 23 ½  x 11 ½ inches; for the bottom, a piece 19 ¼  x 9 inches; for the sides, two pieces each 23 5/6 inches long at the top and 20 ½  inches long at the bottom, with each end cut to equal meeting angles; for the back, a piece 12 7/8  x 9 inches; and for the door, a piece 12 3/16  x 8 7/8 inches. Trim and smooth the edges of all pieces.

Apply carpenters’ glue to one end of the 19 1/4 x 9-inch bottom piece and set the 12 7/8  x 9-inch back piece against it so that the bottom edge of the back extends 5/8 inch below the bottom surface of the bottom. Fasten the back to the bottom with three 3-penny aluminium nails.

Lay the assembly on its side. Apply a bead of carpenters’ glue along the uppermost edge, and set one of the side pieces into place. One lower corner of the side should meet the lower corner of the back; the top edge should be flush with the top edge of the back, and the bottom edge should overlap the bottom by 5/8 inch. Secure the side piece with three 3-penny aluminum nails driven into the back piece, and five 3-penny nails into the bottom piece. Then turn the box over and fasten the other side the same way.

With a fine-toothed flat file, bevel each end of the top piece to a slight angle. Apply a bead of glue along the top edges of the sides and back, and set the top into position with the corners and bevels flush. Nail the top into place with six 3-penny aluminum nails spaced along each side, and two more spaced across the back.

–

Interesting Post:

Decorative Effect with Lamppost

Cost of Metal Roof