Previous Mail box making:
To hold the box closed, use a small knob or a door pull with a magnetic catch. Center the knob or door pull about 2 inches down from the top edge of the front piece, and fasten it with the hardware provided.
Secure two butt hinges to the bottom edge of the door; instead of using the screws provided with the hinges, substitute others of the same diameter but ½ inch longer than the originals. Set the mailbox upside down-on its top-and set the door into position. Fold the free hinge leaves out flat on the bottom of the box, and adjust the door until there’s 1/16 inch clearance at its top edge and along each side. Secure the hinges to the bottom of the box with the screws provided. If further fitting is needed, carefully shave the door edges with a file until the door operates without binding or scraping.
Mount the magnetic catch body centered on the underside of the top piece, with its face 2 1/8 inches back from the front edge of the top. Mount the catch plate centered on the inside of the door, flush with the top edge. Then move the catch body forward slightly until the door plate makes positive contact with the catch and the door is vertical. Tighten the catch body mounting screws.
Cut a 1-inch square of plywood. Apply glue to one side and center the plywood square on the side at a point 1 inch above the bottom of the box and 4 inches back from the lower front corner. Secure the plywood square with two 1-inch brads.
Make a Mailbox -3
To make the flag, cut a 1 ½ x 2 ½ inch piece of heavy-gauge scrap sheet metal. Along one 11/2-inch side, drill two 1/8-inch holes, ¼ inch in from the edge and 3/8 inch from the top and bottom.
Cut a 17-inch piece of 1/8 x 1/2 inch aluminum or galvanized steel strap. At one end, drill two 1/8-inch holes to match those drilled in the flag, with the top edge of the flag flush with the end of the strap and the side of the flag flush with the side of the strap. At the other end of the strap, drill a 5/32 -inch hole, centered ½ inch back from the end and on the longitudinal centerline of the strap. Fasten the flag to the strap with two 1/8-inch pop rivets.
Mark the center of the 1-inch-square plywood spacer block on the side of the box. Punch a small starter hole with a scratch awl, and drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screw partway in. Remove the screw, position the hole in the end of the flag arm over the hole in the plywood, and drive the screw tight, using a #8 flat washer between the flag arm and the plywood block. Then back the screw off just enough so that the flag arm moves freely.
Lower the flag arm. Near the flag, 1 inch up from the bottom of the box, drive a 1-inch #8 roundhead galvanized or plated wood screw partway into the side of the box. This stop screw will keep the flag arm from falling past the bottom of the box.
Raise the flag until it’s tilted slightly forward -about 10 degrees past the vertical position-and mark the point where the arm crosses the edge of the top. Drive a 1-inch L-shaped screw hook into the edge of the top at this point. Screw the hook in far enough so that the flag arm can be pushed between the hook and the edge of the top; this holds the flag in place when it’s raised.
Unless the mailbox is made of cedar or redwood, apply a finish. Remove all hardware, and sand the entire box smooth. Apply whatever finish you like, but paint the flag bright red; leave the arm unfinished. After the finish is completely dry, add the box number and/or your name, if required or desired.
Replace the hardware. Mount the box solidly on a post or other support, using two 1 ½ -inch #10 lag screws, with washers, driven down through the bottom of the box.
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[...] going to be and what the structural elements were. The same is true in outdoor spaces. Even though outdoor design is less about walls, doors and windows, it still makes sense to start with the structural [...]