What Makes an Ideal Kitchen

Category : Interior design

It is a mistake to suppose that any room, however small and unpleasantly situated, is “good enough” for a kitchen. This is the room where housekeepers pass a great portion of their time, and it should be one of the brightest and most convenient rooms in the house; for upon the results of no other department depend so greatly the health and comfort of the family as upon those involved in this ‘household workshop’.

Every kitchen should have windows on two sides of the room, and the sun should have free entrance through them; the windows should open from the top to allow a complete change of air, for light and fresh air are among the chief essentials to success in all departments of the household. Good drainage should also be provided, and the ventilation of the kitchen ought to be even more carefully attended to than that of a sleeping room. The ventilation of the kitchen should be so ample as to thoroughly remove all gases and odors, which, together with steam from boiling and other cooking processes, generally invade and render to some degree unhealthful every other portion of the house.

There should be ample space for tables, chairs, range, sink, and cupboards, yet the room should not be so large as to necessitate too many steps. Undoubtedly much of the distaste for, and neglect of, “housework,” so often deplored, arises from unpleasant surroundings. If the kitchen be light, airy, and tidy, and the utensils bright and clean, the work of compounding those articles of food which grace the table and satisfy the appetite will be a pleasant task.

It is desirable, from a sanitary standpoint, that the kitchen floor be made impervious to moisture; hence, concrete or tile floors are better than wooden floors. Cleanliness is the great desideratum, and this can be best attained by having all woodwork in and about the kitchen coated with polish; substances which cause stain and grease spots, do not penetrate the wood when polished, and can be easily removed with a damp cloth.

The elements of beauty should not be lacking in the kitchen. Pictures and fancy articles are inappropriate; but a few pots of easily cultivated flowers on the window ledge or arranged upon brackets about the window in winter, and a window box arranged as a jardiniere, with vines and blooming plants in summer, will greatly brighten the room, and thus serve to lighten the task of those whose daily labor confines them to the precincts of the kitchen.

The kitchen furniture.
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The furniture for a kitchen should not be cumbersome, and should be so made and dressed as to be easily cleaned. There should be plenty of cupboards, and each for the sake of order, should be devoted to a special purpose. Cupboards with sliding doors are much superior to closets. They should be placed upon casters so as to be easily moved, as they, are thus not only more convenient, but admit of more thorough cleanliness.

Cupboards used for the storage of food should be well ventilated; otherwise, they furnish choice conditions for the development of mold and germs. Movable cupboards may be ventilated by means of openings in the top, and doors covered with very fine wire gauze which will admit the air but keep out flies and dust.

For ordinary kitchen uses, small tables of suitable height on easy-rolling casters, and with zinc tops, are the most convenient and most easily kept clean. It is quite as well that they be made without drawers, which are too apt to become receptacles for a heterogeneous mass of rubbish. If desirable to have some handy place for keeping articles which are frequently required for use, an arrangement similar to that represented in the accompanying cut may be made at very small expense. It may be also an advantage to arrange small shelves about and above the range, on which may be kept various articles necessary for cooking purposes.

One of the most indispensable articles of furnishing for a well-appointed kitchen, is a sink; however, a sink must be properly constructed and well cared for, or it is likely to become a source of great danger to the health of the inmates of the household.  The sink should if possible stand out from the wall, so as to allow free access to all sides of it for the sake of cleanliness. The pipes and fixtures should be selected and placed by a competent plumber.

Great pains should be taken to keep the pipes clean and well disinfected. Refuse of all kinds should be kept out. Thoughtless housekeepers and careless domestics often allow greasy water and bits of table waste to find their way into the pipes. Drain pipes usually have a bend, or trap, through which water containing no sediment flows freely; but the melted grease which often passes into the pipes mixed with hot water, becomes cooled and solid as it descends, adhering to the pipes, and gradually accumulating until the drain is blocked, or the water passes through very slowly. A grease-lined pipe is a hotbed for disease germs.

Laminate a Countertop

Category : Interior design

Covering a kitchen counter or a vanity with plastic laminate is painstaking, but not really demanding. With care and patience, you can lay a plastic laminate sheet on any clean, well-supported ¾-inc plywood or particle board base. Tools: measuring rule, hammer, nail set, putty knife, belt sander, pencil, straightedge, carpenters’ square, safety goggles; saber, circular, or table saw with fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade; nylon paintbrush or notched spreader, roller or rolling pin, router with edgetrimming bit for plastic laminates, fine-toothed flat file. Materials: plastic wood or wood putty; medium- and medium-fine-grit sanding belts, rags, tack cloth, precut plastic laminate edge strips, sheet plastic laminate, nonflammable contact cement, brown paper or wax paper, solvent for cement. Time: about 4 to 6 hours for a plain countertop.

Buy a sheet of plastic laminate big enough to cover the countertop completely, with a slight overhang on all sides; buy precut laminate edge strips to finish the sides of the countertop. Choose a nonflammable, water-solvent contact cement, or use the adhesive recommended by the laminate manufacturer. Rent a router with an edgetrimming bit for plastic laminates; if you don’t have one, rent a saber or circular saw with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade. At least 48 hours ahead of time, set the palstic laminate in the room where it will be used to bring it to the correct temperature and humidity.

Prepare the counter surface carefully. Sink any protruding nails with a hammer and a nail set; fill cracks and cover nailheads with plastic wood or wood putty. Sand the surface with a belt sander and a medium-grit sanding belt to smooth and level it thoroughly. If yo’re covering an old countertop, remove the old finish completely; sand down to clean, bare wood to provide a good base for the laminate. Wipe off all dust and sanding debris and then go over the entire counter surface with a tack cloth.

Carefully measure and mark the sheet of plastic laminate to the approximate size of the countertop; it should be large enough to overhang the counter 1/8 to ¼ inch on all sides. Use a carpenters’ square and a straightedge to make sure the marks are accurate. Plastic laminates are very brittle; wear safety goggles to trim the laminate sheet. Support the laminate sheet firmly as close to the cutting line as possible; hold it down firmly to prevent shattering and chipping. Carefully and slowly cut the sheet as marked with a saber saw, a circular saw, or a table saw with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade. Cut the laminate face down with a saber saw or circular saw, face up with a table saw.

Before laying the top sheet, cover the edges of the countertop with precut laminate edge strips, carefully butted together at the corners. Measure and cut the front and side edge strips to the correct length. Apply contact cement to the back of each edge strip and to the edges of the countertop as directed by the manufacturer, using a nylon paintbrush or a notched spreader. Let the adhesive cure and test for bonding readiness as directed.

Carefully press each edge strip into palce over the cemented ounter edge, first side strips and then front. The bottom of the strip should be flush with the bottom of the edge; let the top of the edge strip stick up above the coun-tertop. You must align the edge strip perfectly as you press it down; once it makes contact with the cemented edge, it can’t be moved. Butt the strips firmly together at the corners of the counter, front strip over sides. After applying each strip, go over it firmly with a roller or a rolling pin to bond it firmly to the counter edge.

Wearing safety goggles, trim the protruding upper edges of the edge strips with a router and an edge-trimming bit for plastic laminates. With a belt sander and a medium-fine-grit sanding belt, sand the cut edges carefully to bring them exactly flush with the counter surface. If the edge strip sticks up only a little, router trimming is unnecessary; use the belt sander to bring the edges flush. Use a fine-toothed flat file to smooth the edge in tight spots.

Wipe the countertop clean and go over it with a tack cloth. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply contact cement to the entire counter surface and to the entire back of the laminate sheet; let the adhesive cure as directed. When the cement is dry, cover the entire countertop surface with brown paper or sheets of wax paper, laid back to front; make sure all the cemented surface is covered. The paper will not stick to the cemented surface.

Set the laminate sheet carefully into place on the countertop; make sure you don’t disarrange the paper. Align the laminate sheet exactly on the countertop, butted firmly against the wall behind the counter, if any, and overhanging the counter slightly on all open sides. Keeping the laminate exactly in position, carefully slide out the brown paper or wax paper strips along the counter, pressing the laminate to bond it in place as you go; be careful not to let air bubbles form between the laminate and the countertop. If the countertop is a long one, you’ll need an assistant to hold the laminate in place as you remove the paper.

To bond the sheet of laminate firmly and evenly in place, go over the entire counter surface with a roller or a rolling pin. Be sure to press out any air bubbles left between the laminate and the countertop.

To complete the countertop, carefully trim off the overhanging laminate edges with a router and an edge-trimming bit for plastic laminates; wear safety goggles as you work. Use a fine-toothed flat file to trim tight spots. Trim the edge of the top laminate sheet exactly flush with the outside face of the edge strip. Finally, bevel the cut edge of the top sheet slightly with a fine-toothed flat file.

Remove excess cement from the completed counter with water or the cement solvent; use water or solvent sparingly so it doesn’t seep into the joints of the countertop. Scrape off large blobs of cement with a scrap of laminate; do not use a metal scraper. Clean the countertop according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

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